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Port Hardy (pop: 4,574) is the largest community on the coast of North Vancouver Island. It's the gateway to the Discovery Coast Passage via the ferries and freighters that ship out of Port Hardy to Prince Rupert, the Queen Charlotte Islands and even as far north as Anchorage, Alaska. It's also the northern terminus of the Vancouver Island Highway; it's where most North Island adventures begin. Because it's a business centre as well as a tourist destination, it feels busier than other island communities of similar size. It also offers more in the way of amenities and services. Visitors have access to a full range of recreational facilities, shopping options, retail services and accommodation.
There is world-class saltwater fishing, coldwater diving and wilderness hiking experiences available. Aboriginal artists, some of the best on the island, who produce exquisite pieces in a range of mediums, dominate the art scene. Magnificent Kwakiutl masks from the Port Hardy area are highly prized by collectors.
On the west coast is Port Alberni (pop: 17,743) and the pastoral Alberni Valley that serve as the gateway to BC's west coast. Just a 193-km (120-mi) drive northwest from the provincial capital, Victoria, Port Alberni boasts a magnificent, deep-sea port that opens to Alberni Inlet, Barkley Sound and the Pacific Ocean. Surrounded by freshwater lakes and streams, the area is wildly popular for its salmon sports fishing (appropriate license(s) required), as well as for hiking, camping and kayaking. It is from Port Alberni that the renowned MV Lady Rose makes its daily excursion to Barkley Sound. The city is also headquarters for the Heritage Network of attractions.
Not to be missed on the highway in to Port Alberni (there's only one!) is a pull-off with a sign saying "Cathedral Grove". This is a protected area of old growth forest featuring trees of enormous girth and height. They are truly awe-inspiring as one walks along the trails through the grove.
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